Wuzhen is a place we visited 15 years ago.
Back then, Xiongben wasn’t with us yet. June 2nd is Xiongben’s 8th birthday, so we planned to take her to Wuzhen to celebrate — and to revisit the first place we traveled to together after we met, to see how much it had changed.
We were still young then.
And Wuzhen was young, too.
This time, we stayed in Xizha, Wuzhen. There are many guesthouses here, and some of them are pet-friendly. Although dogs are not allowed to explore inside Wuzhen Xizha Scenic Area, the old and charming Dongzha, the more local and untouched Nanzha, are both dog-friendly.
For this trip, we also planned visits to Jiaxing, Nanxun Ancient Town, and Xitang Ancient Town. Xiongben was able to enjoy herself freely and happily along the way.
"Mama loves you. Eight years old—the best age of all. Our birthday adventure begins now!"
Looking at the customized luggage tag on his gear, engraved with his name and our '8 Years on the Road' milestone, I realized how much these small tokens matter. It’s not just a tag; it’s a piece of his story that travels with us from one ancient gate to the next. It carries our hope that he continues to see the world by our side, one town at a time.
Driving from Shanghai to Wuzhen, the moment that grand wooden archway from over a decade ago came into view, it felt like stepping back in time. Wuzhen is the quintessential Chinese water town, a living legacy with over 7,000 years of civilization and 1,300 years of history. Here, the classic imagery of 'small bridges, flowing water, and cozy cottages' comes to life amidst elegant traditional architecture. It’s a place to not only admire the scenery and sleep by the river but to truly feel the pulse of a millennium-old culture and embrace the serenity of water town life. As a premier 5A-rated destination, Wuzhen also proudly serves as the main venue for the World Internet Conference.
Dongzha is world-renowned for its authentic water town charm and vibrant local atmosphere. Not far into the area, we came across the 'Fist Boat' (Quan Chuan), a unique sight I had previously encountered in Zhujiajiao, Shanghai. It is a traditional form of martial arts performed entirely on a boat—a fascinating way for the local community to stay fit and entertained. Watching the performers demonstrate the perfect balance of strength and agility, where the boat sways but the person remains steady, was a truly remarkable experience. We held Xiongben in our arms and stayed for a while, captivated by the performance.
Walking further in, we encountered the Jiangnan Hundred Beds Museum. Every bed here is a masterpiece over a century old, showcasing exquisite craftsmanship and meticulously selected materials. The wooden beds are superbly crafted, featuring vivid carvings of figures that are full of life and detail, complemented by rich, storytelling patterns. The motifs are deeply symbolic: the 'Double Coin' pattern represents wealth and prosperity filling the home, while the 'Ice Crack' railings symbolize fortune and auspiciousness. Most striking are the unique Jiangnan Carved Beds, with their elegant double-arc arched tops and luxurious bone-inlaid carvings. It is a breathtaking sight that can only truly be appreciated when seen with your own eyes.
Continuing our journey, we arrived at the Hongyuantai Dyehouse, a place that holds the purest essence of Jiangnan aesthetics. Established during the Song and Yuan dynasties, this dyehouse preserves the ancient craft of natural vegetable dyeing. The sea of blue hanging from above is the color of Polygonum tinctorium fermented over time. It is said that each piece of fabric must be dipped twenty times to achieve its unique texture and depth of color.
You can wander freely through these hanging indigo linens; Xiongben, who can see shades of blue, had a wonderful time playing among them. A nearby shop offers treasures made with the same traditional methods—toys, bags, clothing, hair accessories, and tablecloths. You are sure to find your own perfect shade of blue here.
When you visit Wuzhen, you don’t necessarily need to rush through every single attraction. Instead, wait for the breeze to part the hanging linens, catching a glimpse of a sculling boat drifting in the distance. Watch the green vines climb up the ancient gray bricks, breathe in the fragrance of local wine, and pick up a warm Radish Silk Cake near Caishen Bay in Dongzha. As you walk along the bluestone paths, savoring each bite, you realize that every brick and every tile here embodies the ultimate gentleness and romance of Jiangnan.
Dongzha served as a major filming location for the classic TV drama Lost Time (Si Shui Nian Hua). If you have the chance, I highly recommend watching it to get a deeper sense of this place. It was through this series that the renowned actor Huang Lei formed a lifelong bond with Wuzhen, eventually becoming one of the key figures in the town's cultural revival.
Xizha (the West Scenic Zone) is a remarkable example of how an ancient Jiangnan town can be perfectly preserved while achieving a harmonious coexistence between humanity and the environment through thoughtful revitalization. It is home to the famous 'Mushroom House' from the variety show Back to Field (Xiang Wang De Sheng Huo), the very place where Huang Lei returned years later with his close friends. Wuzhen also hosts the renowned Wuzhen Theatre Festival—a seed of performing arts planted by Huang Lei that has blossomed into a grand annual celebration every October, bringing together theater lovers from across the globe.
As we wandered through the narrow alleys of Dongzha, following the footsteps of Lost Time, I was so glad we had Xiongben’s waterproof boots on. Those ancient stone paths are beautiful but can be damp and hidden with moisture between the cracks. Keeping his paws dry and protected is our little secret to preventing interdigital dermatitis during these long water town explorations—letting him explore every corner without worry.
As you enter Xizha, you are greeted by the Wuzhen Grand Theatre, widely regarded as the most beautiful theater in China. Its architecture draws inspiration from Wuzhen’s unique style, featuring a 'Twin Lotus' design that balances light and shadow. One side utilizes a transparent glass curtain wall that echoes the surrounding lake, while the other side is crafted from traditional blue bricks, seamlessly connecting the modern structure to Wuzhen’s heritage. It is especially breathtaking when illuminated at night.
Near the entrance of Xizha, you can find a detailed showcase of traditional shipbuilding techniques and even catch a glimpse of boatmen meticulously repairing their vessels. In Wuzhen, these boatmen are far more than just navigators of the sculling boats; they are the town’s unofficial ambassadors and living maps. Many are locals born and raised here, possessing an intimate knowledge of the stories behind every single bridge. When a woman is at the helm, she is affectionately known as a Chuanniang (Boat Lady). As Wuzhen welcomes visitors from all corners of the globe, many of these boatmen have even picked up a bit of foreign language to better share their home with the world.
Since dogs are not permitted in Xizha, Xiongben couldn't accompany us here. Instead, we found a quiet corner to write him a birthday postcard and mailed it back home. We wanted it to carry the official postmark of his special day, alongside the heartfelt blessings we wrote for him. Our only wish is for Xiongben to stay healthy, carefree, and happy—to always remain our little boy at heart. Time, please move a bit slower. Let us hold onto these moments and stay together for a long, long time, and then just a little longer.
While in Xizha, you must try a bowl of 'Scholar’s Mutton Noodles' (Shusheng Yangrou Mian)—the flavor is bold, hearty, and incredibly delicious. Another must-taste is the 'Victory Cake' (Ding Sheng Gao), crafted from a blend of japonica and glutinous rice flour. Its history dates back to the late Southern Song Dynasty, a time of frequent conflict. The people of Wuzhen made these cakes as rations for soldiers, offering them as a blessing for a triumphant return. As Wuzhen has long taken pride in its scholarly traditions, the Victory Cake has also come to symbolize best wishes for success in academic pursuits and imperial examinations.
Beyond its famous pickles and Sanbai Wine, Wuzhen is home to the legendary Yichang Cast Iron Wok, produced by the century-old Shen Yichang Foundry. Crafted from pure pig iron through repeated smelting and meticulous hand-polishing, these woks are true masterpieces.
We brought one home fifteen years ago, and on this trip, we couldn't resist buying another. This traditional Chinese wok feels like a piece of history—where the millennium-old furnace fire never dies, casting iron into poetry. In the courtyard of the Yichang Foundry sits the 'World’s Largest Wok,' cast in 1866 and weighing 3.15 tons. In times of famine and war, it was used to serve porridge to the needy, transforming its unparalleled craftsmanship into a profound spirit of universal compassion.
Exhausted from our walk, we stopped at the 'Mushroom House' to rest and enjoy a cup of tea, letting the leisurely moments slowly unfold. As Huang Lei once said, 'Wuzhen is the life we all yearn for.' Even the breeze here feels like a delicate blend of dramatic arts and the warmth of everyday life. Since Huang Lei is known for his incredible cooking, sitting in this courtyard makes you feel as though you're just a moment away from helping him bring a home-cooked dish to the table. The Mushroom House has perfectly preserved its original layout from the show. We ordered a pot of 'Old Tree Osmanthus Black Tea' and simply sat there—it was the epitome of serenity.
Wuzhen also hides a gem called Nanzha (the South Scenic Zone). While it lacks the fame of the East and West zones, it is far less crowded, free of charge, and most importantly, completely dog-friendly—making it the perfect place to wander with Xiongben. Nanzha remains untouched and raw; it is a living residential area where you can witness the authentic daily lives of the locals. The residents run their own small shops, and as night falls, the soft glow of the lights seems to slow down time itself. The old street isn't long, but it preserves the town’s most primitive charm. With locals cooking their evening meals, well-worn bluestone paths, and cats napping undisturbed, the most touching part is this unpretentious 'Yanhuoqi'—the warm, grounded pulse of everyday life.
For this birthday journey to the water town, we arranged a special professional photoshoot for Xiongben. It was a complete experience, with dedicated staff for styling and a wide selection of outfits, all set against a beautifully crafted backdrop. Our goal was to capture a stunning artistic portrait to commemorate Xiongben’s 8th year. He was incredibly cooperative and stayed so calm throughout the session; it was as if he understood that this was a precious moment being captured with his mom and dad to cherish forever.
Tucked away within the ancient bricks and tiles of Wuzhen are our deepest blessings for Xiongben. Though our footsteps pause here for a moment, the dream of Jiangnan is far from over. Leaving behind the pure romance of Wuzhen, the classical gardens of Nanxun, the misty rains of Xitang, and a specially planned birthday photoshoot in Jiaxing all await us just ahead. Xiongben’s 8th birthday journey is 'To Be Continued.' Next stop: Nanxun Old Town. Are you ready to keep drifting with us through the gentle soul of Jiangnan?
Our water town birthday journey: To be continued...
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